THE ELECTRONIC PARTS.

I started with electronic for many years age. I have built a lot of HIFI equipment. Today the electronic building is a part of my model hobby.

 

Speed controllers for brush motors

The price on commercial build speed controllers is today that low, that a homebuild speed controler in most case cost more to build ! - but I like to build Speed Controllers, therefore I continue - that's the fun that count for me.

The first picture show some of my smaller controllers, the round controller is for S400, max. 10 cells/20A, the other controller is more powerfull, 12 cells/30A for S480 - S600.

The second picture shows my first prototype: A big one - build ad a half forward/reverse controller - it was working! Max 10 cells/15A. The small controller on the same picture my most powerfull controller, for 34 cells and 80A. .


 


The first 2 pcs. of the new controllers was build with leaded components - even though they are still small, only 8 x 5 cm. These two controllers is used in the Smit Rotterdam.


The first PCB, only 25 x 48 mm.

Boat controllers

I have build a 15 A controller with forward and reverse, that controller is used in most af my scale boats. I build the original leaded version, and my own SMD version.
The construction was printed in the Swedish magazine:"Altt om Hobby 7-95"










NEW..........NEW..........NEW..........NEW..........NEW..........NEW..........NEW:
The speed controller from "Altt om Hobby" has a switching frequency ot app. 50 Hz made by the transmitting frequency in the RC system. The 50 Hz is fine for a lot of motors' eg. the Monoperm series, but the 50 Hz switching frequency is for the motors with multible poles eg. a Bühler, to low.
These motors make a lot of mechanical noise when used on the low frequency, and on higher power compositions will the low switching frequency also give a lower efficiency on these motors, than a controller with a high switching frequency (the eficiency really is not a problem in a scale boat, where power composition rarely are aboe 2A).

Because I wanted to get rid of the noise problem on the Bühler motors did I make a new forward/reverse speedcontroller, that work on a high switching frequency (>1 KHz). The controller is very little, only 25 x 50 x 5 mm and the electrical data: OPTO or BEC, 6 - 12V, 5A or 10/15A
The construction is based on the "Altt om Hobby" construction and on the "speed controller 5" on this page: PT-boat spedcontroller.

For more information about the speed controller look here: New F/R speed controller

The PCB for the forward/reverse speed controller had arrived.
The PCB is only 25 x 48 mm, I have made the PCB in two versions, one for FET's in TO-220 and one for FET's in SO8 - these two versions will make a perfect speed controller for all my boats.



The first production lot

The first "production" lot of the new forward/reverse controller.
I have made the controller with different switching frequency, 50Hz for the Monoperm, app. 300 Hz for the big Bühler and 1 kHz for the smaller Bühler
In addition has I made two version: one for 6 - 12V, 5A with BEC to the small motors and one 12V, 10/15A with OPTO, for the big motors.







The faster boats
In the faster boats I use the same controllers, without reverse, as I use in my planes, but with water cooling.

Brushless Speed Controllers

The brushless speed controller is a more advanced controller than the brushed controller. The brushless controller makes a 3 phase AC voltage from the DC voltage from the battery.
A brushed controller is only a "variable voltage unit" that control the voltage to the motor.

I wanted to build my own brushless controllers, by looking at the internet I found the Speedy BL page, look here Speedy BL The Speedy BL controller was one of the first controllers made for the LRK-motor and therefore a good choice for my purpose.

The Speedy BL is not that difficult to assemble, but if you don't have experience in building electronics - this is not the electronic item to start with!

The second picture show my first lot of Speedy BL controllers, I like to build more than one, when I build ! The 17 pcs. took some time, today they are all flying in my planes.

The picture below show my first lot of MINI SPEEDY BL controllers. The MINI Speedy BL controllers are today discontinued and replaced by the MICRO Speedy BL with the same electrical data, but with more features (a more advanced microcontroller).

I build all these small controllers in a 15A version by adding more and better FET (they were origimal planned for 10A).

The picture to the right show a pcb for a MINI together with a pcb for a MICRO - the MICRO are smaller than the MINI and therefore easier to locate in a small plane

 

RC - Switch

A small lot of on/off switch, I use these RC-switch for eg. lights, waterpumps and radarmotors in my boats. This is a simple construction with only one 4013 IC and a few other components, for more information look at: RC-Switch

 

TWO Function switch

This is a 2 function switch for operation on one channel.

Switch no. 1. is ON at full "low" signal and OFF at full "high" signal - Switch no. 2 is working opposite. At "mid" signal both switch are OFF.

The construction is based on the above RC-switch.

I use this switch for the main battery in my fishing boat "Trawler". The boat have 2 batterys, I can then run the boat on either batery 1. or battery 2. and switch between the 2 battery while sailing.

 

Memory switch

This is a memory on/off switch made form 3 pcs 4013 IC, a simple construction, that work very well.

There are 2 independent switch on the board, both operated from the same channel. Switch no. 1 operate in the "low" end and switch no. 2 in the "high" end on the channel, like the above 2 function switch.
The memory switch stay ON (or OFF) until the function are operated again. I use a toggle switch on the radio to operate the switch

I use this switch for the radar motor and the sound in my fishing boat "Trawler".

 

BEC - for Model boats

I use a homemade BEC in all my 12V powered model boats.
The main component in a BEC is a fixed 5V positive voltage regulator, I use different types from regular 7805 to LDO-types. I only use 1 - 2A types. The BEC on the picture is based on a LM2940 regulator.
In the boat I mount the BEC on a small piece on aluminium for cooling.

In my 6V powered model boats, I only use a LDO-type of voltage regulator; the voltage drop is too small for a regular voltage regulator. In these smaller boats I build the BEC-regulator into the motor controller

When I use BEC in a model aircraft, the BEC is a part of the motor controller.

 

Additional voltage

For driving e.g. a small gear motors for a radar I use a variable voltage regulator.
I use a 100mA LH317 regulator for this job. The regulator in mounted on a small PCB with a few components and a potmeter that make it possible to adjust the voltage for the specific purpose - A small radar is running faster than a big radar, for doing that do the two motors need a different voltage.

The construction is that small that it is and mounted directly on the cable for the radar motor.

 

Reverser

A very simple reverser, using a single 4001 IC and a few additional compenents (SMD mounted on the bottom side of the pcb)

This one is used in Mercantic, because this boat use the same radio as Samson, It's a old Futaba F-14 without computer. I don't want to change the plug inside the radio when I change boat. The reverser is perfectly doing the job.

 

Servo controller

I a model boat, that's powered by two motors - one for "Forward" and one for "Reverse" (The Autofaerge - look at the model boat page), I needed a controller for controlling the two ruder (two servo), Therefore I have made this controller.

The controller automatically switches the servos so that only the servos in the end of the boat where the motor is running is moving. At the same time is the other servo set into middle position.

This little circuit does the job perfect (the main part of the components is SMD mounted on the back side of the pcb).

 

 Model boat sound units

A sound unit will make a model boat more realistic. I use a lot of effort for making the electromotor in all my model boats soundless, that's important if a realistic sound must be added - a real boat do not sound like a screaming gearbox or a non balanced drive line!
There is different ways to make a realistic sound - some more realistic that others. I have tested the following units:  


The simple sound
This one is a DIY-unit from the German company Conrad, look here: Conrad. This unit makes a simple very electronic sounding sound. This unit can be use in smaller boat, simulating a small one cylinder diesel motor. That's the only purpose for this unit.


The more complex sound
This one is a sound unit from the German company Robbe, look here: Robbe. This unit makes a more complex, but still electronic sound.
This unit can be used for boats with a single cylinder motor, making a reasonable motor sound.
This unit are made in different motor types, the one I have only tested is the 1 cylinder sound.


The most complex sound
This one is a DIY-unit from the English company Action, look here: Action. This unit makes a more complex, but still electronic sound. This unit can be adjusted for different sound pattern, on top of that can the unit be adjusted for 4, 6 or 8 cylinders sound.
This unit can be used for different boats, making a useful motor sound.
Action do also make other sound units - and a lot of electronic DIY kit for model boats.


The digital unit
This unit is from the German company Graupner, but the exact same unit was sold by both the Conrad and the Steba-Modellbau company. look here: Steba.
The unit was produced be German ESU company. The unit is unfortunately not in production anymore.

The digital unit has a digital recorded real motor sound, that change with the motor speed. In addition do the units have different other sounds, eg. horn, birds, winch.
The sound from this unit is very realistic, perfect for model boats.
The unit was produced with different sound for different type of boats.

 

Other sound units

The digital sound unit, do have different additional sound build in, but it is also possible to buy separate units that make eg. the horn sound. Thise units are quite simple, I have only tested a few units from the Conrad company.
These units is definite not my favourites.

 

Receiver

I prefer to use the receivers from the ACT range (look at link page for the link to ACT).
The ACT Company makes a big range of receivers for the 35 Mhz (Aircraft) and 40 Mhz (boat) with from 4 to 10 functions.
The picture shows 3 different RX with 4, 6 and 8 function. The RX on the picture are the older version, today they are called "digital" and have more functionality build in, eg. a fail safe.

ACT also make the special DSL-receivers, where two receivers are used together for a more stable receiving - The best RX system availability today!

In addition to the good functionality in the ACT receivers do ACT also give a full lifetime guaranty on all RX - no one else do that !!
A perfect receiver and a perfect service!

 

Skypanel and Skymelody

This devise is fantastic !

The Skypanel and Skymelody is for gliders, the system measure the height and the variation in height (+ some other functions) and transmit the information to the pilot on the ground in clear speech.

The system is fantastic when looking for thermals, as soon as the glider goes into the up going air, there is a change in the tone from the variometer, and the height figures start to grow. A lot of different functions can be programmed into the system.

In addition to the online information do the system save all information's from a flight (memory for 10 trips) the information can be loaded into a PC for detail study.

For More information about the Skypanel and Skymelody system look at: Skypanel

 

Charging

I use the Schulze ILS 8-936 charger for all my big cells - here the charger charge a good 10 cells GP3300 pack at 10A.

Yes, I was also one of the "high end charger" owners that had to see the rest of the world change to LIPO cells without any possibility to upgrade this high cost charger, because the priority from Schulze was to upgrade the smaller chargers first … That's was the reward to the "high end" costumers …

Today that's history. I got my hardware and SW update at Intermodelbau in April 2005. The SW are OK, but I was reckless - I had in addition ordered the light upgrade….. There were light in the display, that was OK, but in addition there was a humming sound from the charger, that loud that it was impossible to use the charger when I was close to it……. I have today disconnected the light - that was then app. 150 EUR for nothing !!!

If you are thinking about buying the light update don't do that before you have read this: E-zone about my Schulze charger

 

Old Charger

The old Robbe Infinity charger was in use sometimes.....but not anymore: I burned it !!! - while disconnecting a 30 cell pack I made a contact from the negative battery connector to the negative pole on the car battery………. That make the smoke came out of the charger

- That make me think of the old story, that some (unlucky) engineer once told me: They said: Did you know that all electronic parts are full of smoke - that's why they work !!, You can prove that by letting the smoke came out, as soon the smoke have left the components', they don't work anymore !

 

Homebuild charger

This is a construction from Millan Lulic

The charger charge up to 30 cell, up to 10 cells max. 6 A, and then down to 2 A at 30 cells. This charger is still used sometimes for charging.

 

Swallow charger

My new little charger.

This is a handy little charger, a charger that I can use everywere. It can charge all types of cells, up to 14 cells / 5 LIPO and up to 5 A. It cost nearly nothing !

A super charger

(the charger are sold with different names on it e.g. Multiplex, X-peak and Swallow - all the same charger)

 

Charging LIPO Cells

My first two homebuilt chargers for LIPO cells.

A good thing with the LIPO cells is the charger !
The LIPO cell charging is very, very simple: Only max. voltage and max. current have to be controlled, that's like the old days with a LEAD battery. Only a simple construction is needed for that.

The picture show one charger for a 2 cells packs - this one charge up to 4 packs at the same time with 1,5 A or 1,8 A. And one for a 3 cells pack - this one charge up to 2 packs at the same time with 1,2 A or 1,5 A.

My chargers are quite simple, just the combination of both max. voltage and max. current, no microprocessor is needed for that. I use the standard power supply IC: L200 in my chargers. The 3 cells charger does in addition have a switch mode power supply for changing the 12v to the needed higher voltage.

For More information about my LIPO chargers look here: LIPO charger

 

For More information about the LIPO chargers look here:
My LIPO charger ...
LIPO ballancer no. 1. ...
LIPO ballancer no. 2. ...
LIPO 5A charger.

The new LIPO Charger

This is my new 3 cell LIPO charger.

The charger have 6 pcs. 1,5 A / 1,9A chargers and two 1,5 / 3A charger. All 8 chargers have 3 LIPO ballancers (24 pcs. in total). All 8 charger are working fully independent from each other.

In addition to the charging electronic, do the charger for optimal cooling, has a temperature control that controll the 6 small fans in the charger for optimal cooling.

The pcb on the picture are one of the 5 pcb that's inside the charger.

 

Ballancing LIPO Cell's

My newer LIPO charger has the balancer build in, but when I charge LIPO cells an other chargers I use this balancer.
This balancer is for a 5 cell pack, but it can of cause be used for packs with 2 - 5 cells'. The balancer is based on the balancer on thise link:

LIPO ballancer no. 1
LIPO ballancer no. 2

 

Charging Scale boats

Nearly all my scale boats have a LEAD battery, and a on board charging system.

The charger is based on the same construction as the above LIPO charger, lead charging is the same as LIPO charging (simple charging, only with max. voltage and max. current)

The charger on the first picture is for Mercantic, 6 individual chargers for charging the 6 batteries (the boat have 6 pcs. 12 V 1,2 Ah lead batteries).

The other picture show the charger for Smit Rotterdam, this one have 2 chargers, one for the 12 Ah main battery and one for the 1,2 Ah battery used for the sound unit.

In addition do this charger have a BEC circuit - that's like a mistery in some advertising - but BEC is a very simple regulator (in the boat I use a 7805 IC, for 1,5A) that change the voltage from the main battery to 5V for the RX. Very simple and I don't need to charge a seperate battery for the RX.

 

Charging TX

I hate when the TX goes empty at the flying fiels on a fine flying day. I use either the Schulze charger or this homebuild TX charger for charging TX at the flying field

The homebuild charger charge a 8 cells TX with either 0,8 A (my car/boat TX) or 1,6A (my plane TX). The charger use the MAX 713 charger IC and a switch mode power supply for changing the 12V to the higher voltage needed for 8 cells charging.

 

Charging Mini-Z cars

I have build this small charger. This charger charge 2 packs each with 4 cells at the same time. The charger charge with 1 A.

A fine charger for the small AAA NiMh cells used in the Mini-Z cars.

 

Charging back home in the workshop

I have build these charger from a construction in the Swedish magazine:"Altt om Hobby". A construction that first discharge the battery pack then slow charge in 14H with 1/10C.

I have 3 different chargers that use this construction, 2 units that can discharge/charge a TX pack and a RX pack at the same time, and one that can discharge/charge up to 6 battery packs with cells from 4 to 10 and from 500 mAh to 5000mAh

 

Servo tester

The construction used in this servotester is from the English electronic magazine: "Elektor Electronics 4-99". The construction use a micro controller.

The servotester can drive a servo or a speed controller, and test the RX/TX because it can measure the signal from the RX to the servo.

A very, very fine construction.
A must for everyone that build RC electronic !!

 

Zapping

Zapping is a most ! To get the best performance out of the NiMh cells, the cells must be zapped.

I use this "battery" of condensators as my zapping power. I charge the 70.000 uf condensators up to 30 - 70 V, depending on the cell. If you want to build a zapper be careful, zapping can be dangerous.

My construction is based on the information on these pages:
Zapped 1
Zapped 2
Zapped 3 .....download the february 1997 newsletter.

 

POWERSUPPLY

I have build some different powersupplys.

The first one is quite old, build for more than 25 years ago. This powersupply do have two variable powersupply inside, both:2 - 45V and a variable current limiter from 0 - 2A.

I use this one for testing electronics.

 

The next one is also variable 4 - 25 V max. 20A, good for motor testing and as a supply for my battery chargers.

 

This one is a portable one, therfore this it is build into a small suitcase.

Variable 5 - 25 V max. 45A.

I use this powersupply for motor testing, battery charging, for powering my charger and for hot-wire cutting in form.

 

Inside the suitcase, digital voltage and ampere read out.....

 

This small switchmode power supply make 18 V from 12 V.

The powersupply have a digital amp. meter. Max. load 2A

I use this powersupply, on places where I only have a 12 V supply (car battery), for charging the 12 V battery in my scale boats. I have build the charger circuit into all my scale boats, therfore I only need the powersupply for charging.

 

Voltage, current and Watt meter

For testing motors I have build this meter, that measure both voltage and current. Up to 100V and 100A.

I have found a way to make a watt meter in the same box as the voltage and currunt meter, I will add a multiplier IC and a digital meter .....more to come

 

Motortester

I am building a motortester that can make a full motor test, and record all the data on a PC, look here for more information: Motor tester

 

Windmill.

I am just now working on a windmill with all electronic for charging a 12v battery.

This is the electronic part. The electronic have 3 different circuit:

- One for controlling the charging.
- One for controlling the windmill (protecting the windmill from to high speed).
- One safety circuit that stop the windmill if something goes wrong.

...more to come

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