THE TOOLS.
On this page I will describe the different tools that I use for my model building, and the experience that I have collected by using the tools.
BÖHLER - The master in 12 V powered tools !!
The 12 V tools from Böhler are the best tools for model building ever made !
These tools are smaller and lighter than the competitors main powered tools because of the 12V operating voltage. In addition do Böhler make a lot of tool for different purpose, tools that no one else is making.
I can give my very best recommendations to all these tools.
They are all working fantastic !
For more information about the Minitool range of power tools look at:
Böhler
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Circular Saw The Böhler Circular Saw is a legend.
This saw do satisfied all the demands that a model builder can have to a circular saw. The saw is made in metal, a construction that make this saw very stable, it is nearly soundless and of cause do the saw have a connection for a vacuum cleaner.
The only word that describes this saw is PERFECT!!! If you are thinking about buying a circular saw - it will be waste of time to look for other circular saw's, go and buy this one ! |
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Compass Saw The Böhler Compass Saw are a handy 12V powered saw, that work well both as hand hold and as fixed saw. The construction look simple, but the saw is very, very reliable. I have been using my Compass saw for both the hard work and the fine work - eg. cutting a 3 mm alu. plate and for cutting the small windows in the cabins on my scale boats. This Compass saw do it all. If you are building models, you simply NEED this saw ! You will NEVER regret it!
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Cross saw
This cross saw is a compass saw with a special head, that make it possible to make a cut with other angles than 90 deg.
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Belt sander This little machine have changed all my sanding, this sander can do everything! I would never had believed it, if I not had tried !! I don't sand anything by hand after I got this one ! This is a fantastic little machine! Also one of the tools that YOU simply need if you are building from scratch.
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Sword Saw This is a saw for the difficult jobs'. The 2 opposite working blades make it possible to use this saw everywhere without any vibration at all. The saw work on all the places where even a normal hand operated saw cant work. The saw is small and strong.
A fantastic little saw that have made all the difficult sawing very, very easy. I can also give my very best recommendation to this saw. | |
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Planning machine This one is for the hard work! Like the belt sander this one can work in all kind of wood.
I use the Planning machine for the really hard work before I start sanding, and I also use it for making very thin strips.
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Power Drilling machine The power drilling machine does have a geared motor with gears made from steel. This machine is tough. The machine will do all work from 0,5 mm to 6 mm hole in wood and light metal. Today this machine makes all the holes needed in my model building - It is a SUPER machine. |
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Micro Router
A perfect Router, working in all types of wood. I like this machine very much, lightweight and handy. |
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Micro sander
This one is for the fine jobs. The big advantage with this machine is that the sanding head is free moving, this result in a sanding head that always is working flat on the surface, making a perfect sanding.
In addition to the sanding can this machine also handle a file, that make the machine perfect for the final adjustment of the windows in a Scale Boat.
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Pendel Sander
Fantastic!!, a perfect sanding machine for the curved surfaces. After using this machine I can't imagine how I could live without it in the past. If you make thinks with curved surface - I can only give you one advice: Buy this machine NOW !! It is a SUPER machine. |
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Angle grinder
This machine one can both sand and cut in wood and metal, it's strong and reliable. A super machine. | |
UNIMAT 1
The Unimat 1 is a very brilliant construction: 6 small units in one machine: Lathe, milling, sanding, jig saw and two different drilling machines.
You can buy this machine in two different versions, the "Original version" and the new "Metal line version". You can combine parts from the two versions, making a machine for your personal needs, my newest lathe is done this way.
The "Original version" is made using some plastic parts; this one is perfect for the simple work in wood, plastic and very soft metal.
The accuracy is not high, but OK for a lot of things.
Take a look here for some very fine work, done at the Original Unimat 1:
Unimat 1 at work
For more information about the UNIMAT range look at: Unimat
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The original UNIMAT 1 The original UNIMAT 1, here assembled as a Lathe, is a relative cheap machine that can do a lot of things. As long as the material is plastic, wood and very soft metal. This machine can do a lot of very good jobs ...and yes, I have had some E-mails asking: As you can see on the picture: I am left-handed.
The "original version" with additional aluminium mounting plates, this gives a much better stability. I have made these from 5 mm aluminium plate. |
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The Original UNIMAT 1 Assembled as a jig saw - The idea with the 6 units in on unit are good,
But I will newer use the time for disassembling the lathe for making a jig saw. Therefore I needed a permanent mounted jig saw that's ready to use when
I need it.
I have therefore with an additional motor made a stationary jig saw from the original UNIMAT 1 kit. This original saw is working very well even though it also have the bigger tolerance problems - by adjusting the jig saw assembly very often it's possible to keep these problems on a very low level. A perfect little saw. |
The Metal line Unimat can also be mounted as a milling machine, with the same stability and accuracy as the lathe, also this one is perfect and recommendable to everyone.
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The UNIMAT ML (metal line)
My newest lathe are made, using some parts from the "Original version" combined with all the moving parts from the "Metal line version"
and the "high speed motor". Now I have a SUPER lathe with all the stability from the "Metal line".
This is a SUPER lathe!
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The UNIMAT ML, powerline
My newest metal line tool is the power line milling and circular saw.
The picture shows the milling machine. |
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PROXXON TOOLS
Proxxon produce both small handheld tools, and bigger tools that work on the table. Nearly all the tools are today produced in a main power version, only few of the handheld tools are produced in a 12V version. I use the following Proxxon tools.
For more information about the Proxxon range of tools look at:
Proxxon
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Small sander A Proxon Pensander PS 12. (powered from 12V) First time I saw this sander I didn't believe that it was working, and therfore worth the money - later I got the opportunity to test the sander, the next day I bought one. | |
The sander make it possible to sand in small narrow corners, to sand direct to assemblings - in short words: To sand all the places where you can't get with your fingers.
I use the sander both as dry sander and as wet sander (even though that the sander not are made for wet sanding). The only disadvantage with this sander are the sandpaper, the original Proxon paper are only usefull for dry sanding, and the price are very high. I use therfore ordinary sandpaper, or for the wet sanding the special wet sanding paper, and double sides tape (called: Carpet-tape) by this the sandpaper cost is nearly nothing....The sander are delivered with some accessories I have changed some of these by making them even smaller by this I am able to use the samder into the very narrow corners
A very reliable sander, that I can recommend.
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Jig Saw My jig saw are the old version of the Proxox jig saw. I have had this saw for many years. The saw cut everything from balsa to plastic. The new version of the saw have a more advanced system for holding the saw blade. By this the saw can use a smaller blade and therfore better utilize the blades. (the old version only use the lover part of the blade). In addition I think that the new version, when it's used with a smaller blade must be more stable and perhaps therfore it is possible to cut in a staight line with that version? I have tryed to buy the new blade handling system for the old saw (that's the only difference between the two version), but Proxxon were not willing to sell that as a upgrade for the old version. | |
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Drill Sharpener The Proxon BSG220 Drill Sharpner is perfect for sharpening drills. The machine is a little complicated to use, but after some test run the machine makes a perfect job. |
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Cutting Saw The new Proxox KG50 is perfect for cutting brass, aluminium, steel and wood (different saw blade) The saw have adjustable length stop, therefore it is possible to cut more items with exactly the same length. The saw have one disadvantage: the light, or more exactly the missing light: the construction of the saw make it impossible to see where the cutting blade are working, the saw itself give a shallow that make it "dark" in the cutting area - a small light is needed!! When Proxxon don't do it must I install a small LED on the saw to light up the cutting area. |
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HOBBY DRILL TOOLS
Hobby drill produce a few small handheld 12 V powered tools. I use the following Hobby Drill tools.
For more information about the Hobby Drill range of tools look at:
Hobby Drill
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Electric drill A small cheap drill, working perfect.
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Orbital sander
An orbital sander made by Hobby Drill. The machine is working very well, at the recommended voltage (12 - 18 V) but the speed of the sander are very
little for my use.
I have two of these sanders, one for dry sanding and one for wet sanding - that's one of the advantages with the low voltage powered tool, they can be used in wet areas without any problems. | |
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Circular saw I had made this one myself, before I god the Böhler Circular saw. The motor is a relative low revolving S700, power supply adjustable 5 - 16 V for optimal cutting speed in different material. The blade is a standard Proxon blade. The saw can make strip down to 1 x 1 mm. The big hole in the side is the connection for my vacuum cleaner. I still need to make a few details on this saw e.g. a system for adjusting the thickness of the wood... but the fantastic Böhler saw had taken over….. | |
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| Different Homemade Drill
A homemade drill, made from a S-400 motor. Working fine for drilling in wood, but the drill stand do have a very higt tolerance! |
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A much more stable and powerfull drill, made from a very old Marx drill and a cheap but stable drill stand. |
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Turntable..
This are a real problem solver ! | |
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Circular sander A homebuild Circular sander. The motor is a old DC motor, running with fixed 220V on the stator and adjusteble voltage on the rotor (30 - 60V), that make it possible to adjust the speed for sanding in different material. The sander are made in chip board, an easy material to wotk in. The sander have direct connection to my vacuum cleaner. This is one of my best tools ! I use it for everything. | |
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Water boiler The old water boiler from the kitchen. I use it for boiling (steaming) wood, before it can be bended. | |
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Epoxy Oven A homebuild small oven. A old hair dryer make the heat, and a small thermostat keep the temperature stable. I use this oven for harden epoxy with a temperature about 70 deg C. It's only used outside. | |
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Milling machine with flex shaft A cheap Chinese Milling machine, A machine that very often are on sale in the bigger supermarked. I have destroyed one, but the price is that low that it's not worth to buy a better machine. The flex shaft make it possible to use the milling machine for smaller jobs.
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Clothes-peg One of the most importent items. It's used for nearly all my glueing. I have sanded the tip, so that the clothes-peg can make a better hold. | |
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Painting A homebuild painting cabin. A small room, only 3 - 4 m2 made in a the cold part of our basement. The painting cabin have a good insulation and a electric heating systen. I heat it up to 27 - 30 deg C when I paint. I use differet type of airbrusch, from a cheap one used for the primer to a better one used for the smaller and finer job. All my painting are done with the Humbrol paint. I like the small bottels, and the wide selection in different colours. - one colour do I not like in the Humbrol selection: The white, that one turn yellow in a very short period. I therfore use the white colour from the Graupner range. All my boats (the wood boats) get a cover of glass fibre, and epoxy + one additional cover of epoxy with micro balloons, and a lot of wet sanding before I start the primer painting. I then paint/wet sand 2 - 7 times depending on the surface. After that 2 layers of the coloured paint that I want for the surface. No doubt about that the painting, for me, are the worst job in the model building !! | |
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Soldering battery packs End to end soldering are the only way to make a battery pack. The old method where copper strips are used, give a high voltage loss. I use this simple V for fixing the cells when I solder. I use a 100W soldering iron and a copper T-head. An easy proces. | |